Get in Loser, We're Going to Utah
“Welcome aboard”
In the time of Corona, hearing those words again made me feel like a kid on Christmas morning. After surviving quarantine, binge watching everything Netflix had to offer, and eating like there was no tomorrow, I was itching to go somewhere. Anywhere. No preference. Just get me on a plane ASAP.
With International travel bans in effect, there’s no time like the present to take advantage of exploring our own backyard. The good ole USA has a lot to offer that people often overlook to go abroad. The state of Utah in particular boasts 5 national parks, making it an ultimate outdoor haven and perfect place to explore while staying socially distant. So ditch your quarantine loungewear, put on your hiking boots, and steal my 5-day Utah road-trip itinerary and tips. No travel agent fees required.
Day 1: Vegas to Zion NP
We jammed our significantly over-packed suitcases into our silver rental car and headed from Vegas towards Zion National Park. In a little under 3 hours, we arrived at the South Entrance to Zion ready to sweat out all the alcohol and regret from the weekend prior in Sin City.
The entrance fee to Zion is $35 per car and the pass is good for a whole week. However, if you do plan to visit all 5 NPs, you can save money by buying an annual interagency pass for $80. This gives you access to all NPs, no matter the state, for one whole year from the date you buy it.
Once you make it through the gate, follow the brown signs towards the Visitor Center to park and pick up the shuttle bus. Note that from April to October access to the “meat” of Zion is by shuttle bus only. There are a few hikes you can do that don’t require the shuttle bus to get to including Pa’rus Trail, which starts from the Visitor Center, or Canyon Overlook Trail, which is only a quick scenic drive away. We chose the latter to start with, which is short and sweet at only a little over a mile, yet full of big views—My kind of hike! The trailhead is located as soon as you come out of the Zion Tunnel behind the ranger traffic booth on the left. Parking is extremely limited, so start looking for it as soon as you get out of the tunnel. There is a tiny lot to the right, but majority of people just park off the side of the road then walk to the trailhead.
Part of the Canyon Overlook Trail
Part of the Canyon Overlook Trail
Main Viewpoint of the Canyon Overlook Trail
Once we finished Canyon Overlook, we headed back to the Visitor Center, hopped on the shuttle and made our way to stop #5, Zion Lodge, which is the gateway to all the Emerald Pools trails. In total, it is about 2.5 miles round-trip to hike to all of the pools. The trail to the Lower pools is paved, making it easily accessible for those with a stroller or in a wheelchair. Hello, crowds. I’m not sure if it was just the time of year we came, but I was expecting some grand waterfall and instead we arrived to a tiny trickle. It was a disappointment for sure, but we kept our hopes up as we continued on to the middle and upper pools. Unfortunately, both pools were also dried up. Bummer. However, when I was taking a water break and turned behind me, I discovered the real gem of the Emerald Pools trail. The way the sun bounces off the red rocks from this viewpoint is a real treat and makes the trail worthwhile.
Lower Emerald Pools "Waterfall"
Middle Emerald Pools
Viewpoint along the Emerald Pools Trail
After a full day in the canyon, we did what we know how to do best—find a Mexican restaurant. Post-hike margs were calling our name. Cheers!
Day 2: Zion NP to Bryce Canyon NP
Bryce yourself, for in about 2 hours, you’ll arrive in the magical land of hoodoos and my personal favorite stop of the trip—Bryce Canyon.
For those who don’t know what a ‘hoodoo’ is (I’m not gonna lie, I had no clue pre-trip), it is a cool column-like rock that takes a unique shape overtime due to weathering. In the case of Bryce Canyon, due to the rain and ice.
Unlike Zion, you are allowed to drive your own car throughout the whole park, but there is also a free shuttle option if you choose to do so. It runs from April-October, hits all the highlights, and can be picked up from the visitor center. If you’re here during high season, it is probably smart to use the shuttle, as the parking lots at all the major points are small and fill up quickly.
We decided to drive, and after a few circles, we found a parking spot at Sunset Point, which is the best place to start Queen’s/Navajo Combination Loop. This 2.9-mile hike is the most popular trail in the park, and rightfully so. It features everything I look for in a hike: a challenge, workout, and of course screensaver worthy views. If you only have time for one hike in Bryce, this is without a doubt the one. It feels like you’re on Mars as you start making your way down into the canyon, but we all know what the downhill means. The dreaded uphill is shortly behind. However, don’t let this scare you, it’s definitely doable for all fitness levels. You just have to take a breather where needed and even if you don’t need it, it’s still worth it to stop and smell the roses.. err.. rather stop and take in the scenery.
Start of the Queen's/Navajo Loop Trail
Queen's/Navajo Loop Trail
Queen's/Navajo Loop Trail
Queen's/Navajo Loop Trail
Uphill End to Queen's/Navajo Loop Trail
Later in the day, as the sun was setting, we made our way to Inspiration Point in hopes to see the sunset from the best view in the park. I’m clearly not Lewis or Clark, because it turns out the canyon is in the east, so the sun actually sets behind instead of over the canyon. This is from any point in the park, including Sunset Point, despite the name. However, the lighting is still beautiful as the sun hits against the hoodoos, so it’s worth a trip. Just don’t wait until it’s too dark to leave Inspiration Point, as there are no railings or guards at all preventing a tumble into the canyon. That would not be a good way to go.
View from Inspiration Point
We headed back into the little “town”, which we quickly concluded is majority owned by some chick named Ruby. There isn’t too much to it, except about 3 restaurants, a gas station, and the inn. Since it was a long tiring day, we decided to grab a quick bite at The Canyon Diner, which is your basic fast food joint with everything ranging from burgers and chicken nugs, to pizza and sandwiches. We are oh so healthy! On the bright side, at least the hiking balances out the fried food. (or so we tell ourselves)
Day 3: Bryce Canyon NP to Capitol Reef NP
It’s a more relaxed day on the itinerary today, so we decided to sleep in a little and not wake up at the crack of dawn. After eating breakfast, we hit the road, and in about 2.5 hours driving along UT-12, you’ll arrive at Capitol Reef. I cannot stress this enough—for the love of God, use the bathroom before you leave and don’t drink a lot. There are no stops along the way and I almost had to pee in a bush.
Once we arrived at the entrance, we noticed there was no fee station. My guess is because the main road, US 24, runs through the park so they can’t charge when there is no other option to go around. Woo hoo! Free is one of my favorite words.
We did 3 things in the park:
--Goosenecks Overlook: A quick stop located before you hit the Visitor’s Center. Nice to stretch your legs, enjoy the views, and take some pictures. It’s only a 0.2-mile walk to the overlook and involves climbing over a few rocks—very easy. Once you make it to the viewpoint, you’ll probably think of the Lion King when Mufasa tells Simba, “Everything the light touches is our kingdom.” At least that’s what I thought of.
Goosenecks Overlook
--Petroglyphs: A pull-off right past the Visitor Center. At first, when you walk up to the rock, it feels like “Where’s Waldo?” since the engravings are kind of difficult to spot. If you look closely though, you’ll see them very faintly at the base of the rock. You can spot more of them if you continue to walk along the wooden deck.
The Petroglyphs
--Hickman Bridge Hike: About 2 miles round-trip hike. Definitely pack water as the beginning is at a slant upwards, the middle goes down into sand, then you end going back up. It takes you to a beautiful natural, arched bridge with canyon views. Perfect introduction to arches before tomorrow’s adventure.
Hickman Bridge
Other Views from the Hickman Bridge Trail
We ended the day at our new home, aka the local (overpriced) Mexican restaurant. Margs round 2!
Day 4: Capitol Reef NP to Canyonlands NP and Arches NP
There is a big day of adventure ahead, so consider taking Kylie Jenner’s words to heart and, “Rise and Shine” early. In about 2.5 hours, you’ll reach the first stop of the day—Island in the Sky district of Canyonlands NP. As you’re driving along in the park, there are plenty of hikes and pull offs with incredible views, but since we only had a day to squeeze in 2 NPs plus a state park, we had to prioritize what we wanted to see and do.
First up on the agenda was the short hike to Mesa Arch. I’m not even sure if I would consider it a hike since it is only 0.5 miles round-trip, but we will say it is. The trail leads to a cliff-edge arch with a dramatic drop off that is not for those scared of heights. Don’t look down! If you’re traveling with children, definitely keep an eye on them here.
Mesa Arch
Mesa Arch
Green River Overlook was our next and final stop in Canyonlands. Although it is popular, there is a decent sized parking lot to accommodate the herds of people. The viewpoint is only a few steps away on a paved sidewalk from the parking lot, making it possible for everyone to see it. When we got up to the edge, I felt like the landscape resembled the aftermath of a meteor crash. It definitely gave me different planet vibes.
Green River Overlook
To stay on track, we said hasta lavista to Canyonlands and headed towards Dead Horse State Park (yeah.. don’t ask me about the name) in route to Arches NP. Because it is a state park, you’re National Park pass will not get you in. The entry fee is $20. It is a quick stop, but worth it. It’s colorful canyons, rugged landscape, and desert atmosphere, all remind me of Horseshoe Bend in Arizona.
Dead Horse Point
From here, Arches NP is about a 30 min drive. It is home to the largest concentration of natural arches in the world making it another highlight in my books. So how are they formed? Well, just like the hoodoos, overtime the weather shapes them. We ended up seeing 3 arches: Double Arch, The Windows, and Turret Arch. All three are right near each other, so you can park your car once and walk. To get to the Windows (north and south) and Turret Arch, it is an in and out trail that ends up being about a mile round-trip.
The Windows Arch
Turret Arch
My favorite, Double Arch, is across the way from these and is about 0.5 miles roundtrip. We ended up packing sandwiches in our bags and decided to sit and eat them under the arch. Just watch out for the vicious Utah chipmunks! They’re fearless little critters.
Double Arch
Double Arch
We drove around the park a little more, then on our way out, we made one final stop to see Balanced Rock. It is actually quite impressive. How does such a big rock not fall over?!
Balanced Rock
After a full day, we headed about 10 min down the road into Moab, which is where we stayed the night. Ahh, our final destination and boy did it feel good to take off our hiking boots! Out of all the cities by Utah National Parks, Moab easily took the cake for best. We got there when it was already dark, but we could tell it was a charming, lively town with plenty of restaurant choices. It was the first place you could tell people actually live.
We decided to eat at Pasta Jay’s for a casual Italian dinner with big flavor... well that, but mainly because we didn’t have wine for 3 days and we were having serious withdrawals. Their pesto cheese bread is *kisses fingers and lifts to the sky * delici-oso.
Day 5: Arches NP to Salt Lake City
A good bit of today will be spent in the car on the way to the land of the Mormons, actually known as Salt Lake City (SLC). It takes roughly 4 hours and majority of the ride is a whole lot of land as far as the eyes can see. That is until you get about an hour out, then you start to see civilization, including an In-n-out and a Target—The necessities of life. I’m going to be brutally honest; SLC is not a great city. Don’t get me wrong, it is beautiful with the mountains and it has a lot of potential, but it is mostly a business city, not a “for fun” city. If it tells you anything, we were there on Saturday and didn’t see a single person in the city until we stumbled across the mall. We ended up eating at Chick-fil-A in the food court since no local restaurants were open. On a Saturday. What a let down. After eating, we googled the nearest liquor store, because let’s be honest, we needed alcohol to cope with this city. Turns out the people of SLC agree. The second busiest place after the mall was the liquor store (they even had their own security guard). It was poppin’.
We spent the rest of our last night on the roof of the hotel drinking and relaxing before the reality of going back to work set in. Goodbye, Utah. Til next time!
Additional Tips:
Get any wine or water before crossing into Utah. They are strict on alcohol sales in the Beehive State so you can’t find wine (or anything over 4% abv) unless it is at state run liquor store. Water near Zion was $15.99 for a 24pk and that price is not a typo!
In my opinion, Zion and Bryce have the best gift shops if you’re looking to get a souvenir.
Pee and fill up with gas when you can. Don’t get too close to empty cause you may not see another gas station or any form of civilization for MILES.
Another option on day 3: Capitol Reef could easily be a half-day trip. You could continue the drive on to Canyonlands and Arches after, spend the night, then have more of a full day on day 4 to spend at both NPs instead of drive time of day 4.
xoxo,
Em